Make sure that it is secure and there’s no corrosion or rust that could be keeping it from making a solid ground connection. Follow the black ground cable to whatever it is connected to. This would mean that it’ll die on the road, and then fire back up again even a few seconds later.Ĭheck the battery cables to ensure that they are free of debris and are bolted to the battery posts properly. The fuel pump may be going out sporadically. If it is not as high as it should be you either have a bad fuel pump or fuel filter. If you don’t hear it at all, you should manually check the fuel pressure at the fuel rails. Since the fuel pump is in the tank, you may want to get a second set of ears so you can be absolutely sure you don’t hear it. If you hear nothing, that is a strong indication that the fuel pump is bad. That’s the fuel pump priming the fuel system. If the engine isn’t starting, turn the key to the on position and listen really carefully. The fuel pump is often not monitored by the engine’s computer, which means it doesn’t activate the check engine light when you are trying to figure out why the vehicle it is randomly dying. The engine can die if the fuel pressure is not high enough to properly atomize the gasoline properly. The fuel pump is responsible for sending highly pressurized fuel to the fuel rails. If it makes a hollow sound, it’s probably empty.Īnother common reason that your Silverado may be starving for fuel is a bad fuel pump. Even if it says there is fuel in there, bang on the tank. The most likely cause is an empty fuel tank aided by a fuel gauge that’s not as accurate as it looks. The most common reason that a vehicle shuts off when driving is a lack of fuel. If your engine is running fine and then it just suddenly dies, one of these three things was abruptly taken away. Your engine needs three things to run properly air, fuel, and spark. But we don’t recommend driving anywhere until your Silverado is fixed, since dying at the wrong time can cause a collision. Parts stores can scan it for you if you don’t have access to a scanner. But, before taking a look at anything, is the check engine light on? If it is, you’ll want to start with whatever trouble code you get from an OBD2 scanner. Vehicles are a lot harder to control without power brakes or steering.Ĭhevy Silverado Shuts Down When Driving: Top Causesĭirectly below is a list of the most common reasons why your Silverado would randomly die while driving. If there is an overload or short that trips the circuit breaker repeatedly, it can weaken if not permanitely damage the circuit breaker causing some of the Headlamp and Dimmer Switch "internal circuits" to no longer work.Īll the extra interior/exterior lighting on these rigs can surpass the underrated headlamp and dimmer switch (and wiring) load capabilities, specially when you start plugging in trailers that are lit up like Xmas trees.If your Chevy Silverado is shutting down while driving, it’s a real safety hazard. With no current flow, the Circuit Breaker cools off and resets automatically. When the Circuit Breaker opens, it interrupts the current flow. The Circuit Breaker opens when the headlight circuit draws to much current. The HeadLamp and Panel Dimmer Switch includes a self-resetting circuit breaker. Voltage is supplied to the HeadLamp and Panel Dimmer Switch at all times. I'll spare you the complete story and lengthy technical text and point out the relevent parts. I spent nearly a grand on various diagnosis/fixes, most only worked long enough for me to pay the bill and exit the parking lot. I battled with No Running or Brake lamps for YEARS, first it was just brake light, then running lights, then both, then came the 4am unexplained "black outs" while driving down the interstate at 75mph. maybe glag can add the corresponding (8a-117 Instrument Panel Dimming) wire schematics Action- Locate and repair open in BLK (150) wire between S204 and G200.Īttached is a schematic for interior lamps but identifies most all the wires referred to above. If OK, REPLACE Headlamp and Panel Dimmer Switch. Action- Check for an open or high resistance in DK GRN (44) or GRA (8) wire between Headlamp and Panel Dimmer Switch and S217. Backprobe Fog Lamp Switch Connector with a digital multimeter from cavity "F" to ground. Test- Move Dimmer Switch to the brightest position. Action- Check for open in GRA(8) wire between splice and affected lamp(s) or in BLK (10) wire between splice and affected lamps. Result- One or more Instrument Panels Lamps are inoperative. Action- Replace Headlamp and Dimmer Switch. Result- Instrument Panel Lamps are lit, but there intensity is not adjustable with the Dimmer Switch. Test- Move Dimmer Switch to the dimmest position and rotate the switch to the brightest position. Result- All Instrument Panel Lamps are inoperative. Test- Turn Headlamp and Panel Dimmer Switch to the Park Position.
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